Automotive locks vary considerably in the types of locking mechanisms and

lock arrangements. There are many other methods of gaining access to an

automobile which are quite often quicker and easier than attempting to pick the

lock.

Probably the most common point of entry is the rubber molding. Anyone intending to engage in automobile

lock work (or desiring to save approximately fifty dollars or more in service

calls) will need some special tools. Both the curve and length of tools are

important to their overall effectiveness.

The tool being used should first be lubricated with a glycerine-based hand

lotion or hand cleaner before inserting it through the weatherstripping. This

not only makes the tools work easier, but helps prevent scarring, tearing or any

other damage to the weatherstripping.

To open most front wing windows, take the lever latch tool and insert it

through the weatherstripping between the wing window and the window trim.

Manipulate the tool by controlling the depth of penetration along the curve. At

the same time use a rocking action to move the window lock into the unlocked

position.

One other type of wing window lock has a lever latch equipped with a

plunger at the pivot of the latch. The plunger deadlocks the latch against

rotation, unless the plunger is first pushed in and held until the initial stage

of rotation has been accomplished. This requires that another tool be inserted

through the weatherstripping and the door window to depress the plunger and hold

it in that position while the other tool is used to rotate the latch. Normally,

the tool used for depressing the deadlocking plunger has a slight curve at the

tip. The tool’s only purpose is to depress the plunger.

Another means of access, when the door window is fully raised and the door

is locked, consists of inserting a stiff bent wire, and using it directly on the

locking mechanism. Tripping of the lock mechanism may often be done by pulling

up on the wire once the tip of the wire has been positioned under the lock

linkage. At other times, the bent tip of the wire must be pulled up against the

linkage and then rotated to trip the locking mechanism. With practice one gets

the feel of what is required to open the door.

Automobiles using a rocker type of locking mechanism may be tripped by

using a thin piece of flat spring steel stock. First, coat the tool with a

glycerine-based hand lotion or hand cleaner to protect the trim and rubber

molding. Insert the tool next to the glass or between the

weatherstripping/molding and the metal of the door. Feel for the lock linkage

with the notched end of the tool, then move the linkage up and down until the

lock moves into the unlocked position.

Another avenue of access to most automobiles is through the firewall,

reaching the door locks with a long stiff wire to push the lock button into the

unlocked position.

Since automobile door locks on most newer models are normally held in place

by a retainer clip, as a last resort the lock can be punched out. First, insert

a bent piece of wire into the keyway and bind it to prevent the lock mechanism

from falling into the door frame. Once out, the automobile can be opened by

pushing up on the linkage attached to the lock mechanism.

                      *****************************
                      *                           *
                      *  The Arts of Lockpicking  *
                      *                           *
                      *****************************

                             Author: Unknown
                       Retyped 2/20/87 by Amadeus

Technology and the Art of Opening Things

While the basic themes of lockpicking and uninvited entry have not changed too much in the last few years, some modern devices and techniques have appeared on the scene . . .

Autos

Many older autos can still be opened with a slim Jim type opener (these and other auto locksmithing techniques are covered fully in the book “In the Stea of the Night” by John Russell III); however many modern cars have built covers over the lock mechanism, or have moved the goodies so the slim Jim will not work . . . So:

                       American Locksmith Service
                               P.O. Box 26
                         Culver City, CA  90230

carries a new improved slim jim that is 30” long and 3/4” wide so it will both reach and slip through the new car lock covers (inside the door).

Price is $5.75 plus $2.00 postage and handling.

General Motor’s cars have always been a bane to people who needed to open them, because the sidebar locking unit they employ is very difficult to pick. To further complicate matters, the new GM cars do employ metal shields to make the use of a slim jim type instrument very difficult . . . So:

                       Lock Technology Corporation
                              685 Main St.
                         New Rochelle, NY  10801

offers a cute little tool which will easily remove the lock cylinder without harm to the vehicle and let you enter and/or start the vehicle.

The GMC-40 sells for $56.00 plus $2.00 for postage and handling.

The best general automobile opening kit is probably a set of lockout tools offered by:

                          Steck MFG Corporation
                           1319 W. Stewart St.
                            Dayton, OH  45408

For $29.95 one can purchase a complete set of six carbon lock-out tools that will open more than 95 percent of all the cars around.

Kwickset have become quite popular as one step security locks for many types of buildings. They are a bit harder to pick and offer a higher degree of security than a normal builder installed door lock. So:

                                  A MFG
                            1151 Wallace St.
                           Massilon, OH  44646

Price is $11.95. Kwickset locks can handily be disassembled and the door open- ed without harm to either the lock or the door by using the above mentioned kwick out tool.

If you are too lazy to pick auto locks:

                              Veehof Supply
                                 Box 361
                          Storm Lake, IO  50588

Still sells tryout keys for most cars (tryout keys are used since there is no one master key for any one make of car but there are group type masters a.k.a. tryout keys. Prices average about $20.00 a set.

Updated Lockpicking

For years, there have been a number of pick attack procedure for most pin and tumbler lock systems. In reverse order of ease they are as follows.

Normal Picking: Using a pick set to align the pins, one by one, until the shear line is set and the lock opens.

Racking: This method uses picks that are constructed with a series of bumps, or diamond shape notches. These picks are “raked” (i.e. run over all the pins at one time). With luck, the pins will raise in the open position and stay there. Raking, if successful, can be much less a effort than standard picking.

Lock Aid Gun: This gun shaped device was invented a number of years ago and has found application with many locksmiths and security personnel. Basically, a needle shaped pick is inserted in the snout of the “gun” and the “trigger” is pulled. This action snaps the pick up and down strongly. If the tip is slipped under the pins, they will also be snapped up and down strongly. With a bit of luck they will strike each other and separate at the shear line for a split second. When this happens the lock will open. The lock aid gun is not 100% successful, but when it does work the results are very dramatic. You can somtimes open the lock with one snap of the trigger and impress the hell out of casual bystanders.

Vibrator: Some crafty people have mounted a needle pick into an electric toothbrush power unit. This vibrating effect will sometimes open pin tumbler locks – like instantly . . .

Technology to the Rescue

There is now another method to open pin and wafer locks in a very short time. Although it resembles a toothbrush pick in appearance, its actually an elec- tronic device.

I’m speaking of the Cobra pick that is designed and sold by:

                             Fed Corporation
                              P.O. Box 569
                          Scottsdale, AR  85252

The Cobra uses two nine volt batteries, teflon bearings (for less noise), and a cam roller. It comes with three picks (for different types of locks) and works both in America and overseas, on pin or wafer locks. The Cobra will open group one locks (common door locks) in three to seven seconds with no damage, in the hands of an experienced locksmith. It can take a few seconds more or up to a half a minute for someone with no experience at all. It will also open group two locks (including govt., high security, and medecos) although this can take a short time longer. It will not open GM sidear locks, although a device is about to be introduced to fill that gap.

How much for this toy that will open most locks in seven seconds???

$235.00 plus $4.00 shipping and handling.

For you hard core safe crackers (serious shit), Fed Corp. also sells the MI-6 that will open most safes at a cost of $10,000 for the three wheel attack model and $10,500 for the four wheel model. It comes in a sturdy aluminum carrying case with monitor and disk drive and software.

If none of these safe and sane ideas appeal to you, you can always fall back on the magic thermal lance . . .

The thermal lance is a rather crude instrument constructed from 3/8” hollow magnesium rods. Each tube comes in a 10’ length, but can be cut down if de- sired. Each one is threaded on one end. To use the lance, you screw the tube together with a matted regulator (like a welding outfit uses) and hook up an oxygen tank. Then oxygen is turned on and the rod is lit with a standard weld- ing ignitor. The device produces an incredible amount of heat. It is used for cutting up concrete blocks or even rocks. An active lance will go through a foot of steel in a few seconds.

The lance is also known as a burning bar and is available from:

                               C.O.L. MFG
                             7748 W. Addison
                           Chicago, IL  60634

This completes lockpicking I.

                   LOCKPICKING II: MISH ASSORTED LOCKS

So you want to be a criminal. Well, if you are wanting to be like James Bond and open a lock in fifteen seconds, go to Hollywood because that’s the only place your gonna ever do it. Even experienced locksmiths can spend five to ten minutes on a lock if they’re unlucky. If you are looking for extremely quick access, look elsewhere.

The following instructions will pertain mostly to the “lock-in-knob” type lock, since it is the easiest to pick. If there is sufficient demand, I will later write a file discussing the other forms of entrance, including dead-bolt.

First of all, you need a pick set. If you know a locksmith, get him to make you a set. This will be the best possible set for you to use. If you find a locksmith unwilling to supply a set, don’t give up hope. It is possible to make your own, if you have access to a grinder (you can use a file, but it takes forever).

The thing you need is an allen wrench set (very small). These should be small enough to fit into the keyhole slot. Now, bend the long end of the allen wrench at a slight angle (not 90 deg.).

Now, take you pick to a grinder or a file and smooth the end until it’s rounded so it won’t hang inside the lock. Test your tool out on doorknobs at your house to see if it will slide in and out smoothly. Now, this is where the screwdriver comes in. Is it small enough for it and your pick to be used in the same lock at the same time, one above the other? Let’s hope so, because that’s the only way your gonna open it. In the coming instructions, please re- fer to this chart of the interior of a lock:

   XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX\ K
    #  #  #  #   #   #    \ E
       #     #   #   #    \ Y                 #  Upper Tumler Pin
    *     *               \ H                 *  Lower Tumler Pin
    *  *  *  *   *   *    \ O                 X  Cylinder Wall
                          \ L        (This is a greatly simplified drawing)
                          \ E
   XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX\

The object is to press the pin up so that the space between the upper pin and the lower pin is level with the cylinder wall. Now, if you push a pin up, its tendancy is to fall back down, right?

That is where the screwdriver comes in. Insert the screwdriver into the slot and turn. This tension will keep the “solved” pins from falling back down. Now, work from the back of the lock to the front, and when you’re through . . .

There will be a click, the scredriver will turn freely, and the door will open. Don’t get discouraged on your first try! It will probably take you about twenty to thirty minutes your first time. After that you will quickly improve with practice.

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I didn’t write this post nor do i take any credit. I found this post lost on Deepnet and i thought it would be wise if it get to be indexed again.